Travel notes
Seasonal and themed guides to travelling in Türkiye, written from official sources.


What to see in Giresun: the island off the harbour tied to the Argonauts, the museum in an old church, the mills of Yedideğirmenler, the summer pastures of Kümbet and Bektaş, and inland Şebinkarahisar with its cliff monastery.
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The sanctuary of Artemis of Ephesus in Selçuk: from a small Archaic shrine to the marble temple Croesus helped pay for, the fire of 356 BC, the single re-erected column, and the Artemis statue in the Ephesus Museum.
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How the underground cities of Cappadocia worked, with what sets each apart: the depth of Derinkuyu, the shafts of Kaymaklı, the message holes of Özkonak, the church at Mazı and the frescoes of Tatlarin.
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Two ancient cities of Pamphylia east of Antalya: Aspendos, with its Roman theatre and long aqueduct, and Perge, the Hellenistic and Roman city whose statues fill the Antalya Museum, with the Kurşunlu waterfall on the way.
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What Kekova is, what lies under and beside its water, the castle and rock-cut theatre at Simena, the Lycian tombs of Theimiussa at Üçağız, and why the shores are reached by boat.
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What to see in Bolu: the crater lake of Abant and its crocus, the landslide lakes and trout of Yedigöller, Gölcük and Karagöl in the pine forest, the 1382 mosque and working bath of Mudurnu, Akşemseddin's tomb at Göynük and the ski slopes of Kartalkaya.
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A visit to the Süleymaniye Mosque, built by Sinan for Süleyman the Magnificent: the dome and its sound jars, the four great columns, the tombs of Süleyman and Hürrem, and Sinan's modest tomb at the corner of the complex.
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Three ancient sites in Aydın province: the oracle of Apollo at Didyma, Miletus and its museum near Balat, and Priene on the slope of Samsun mountain, with what to look for at each.
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What to see in and around Side in Antalya: the two-tradition theatre, the temples of Apollo and Athena, the museum inside a Roman bath, then Köprülü Canyon, Kargıhan and Aspendos.
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What the Basilica Cistern is: a sixth-century water store near Hagia Sophia, with its forest of columns, brick vaults and inverted Medusa heads, and how it served the city under Byzantine and Ottoman rule.
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The land walls of İstanbul, built under Theodosius II in the fifth century: how the moat and double wall worked, the gates at Belgradkapı and Mevlanakapı, Yedikule and the Golden Gate, and the sights near Edirnekapı.
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What to see in and around Marmaris: the castle and its museum, the national park and the old trees of Bayır, the bays the boats stop at, Sedir Island, the parks on the Datça road and ancient Knidos.
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What to see in and around Kuşadası: Pigeon Island and its castle, the Ottoman caravanserai and mosque, the Dilek peninsula national park, then Ephesus, Priene, Miletus, Didyma and Lake Bafa.
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What to see in Alanya, on the Antalya coast: the Seljuk castle on its peninsula, the museum and the Atatürk House, Dim Cave, the ruins of Syedra and Iotape, and the beaches from İncekum to the east shore.
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What to see in and around Kaş, on the Antalya coast: the Lycian theatre and tombs of Antiphellos, Phellos above the town, Kaputaş beach, Kekova and Simena by boat, and Xanthos and Patara to the west.
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The Galata Tower, a Genoese tower of 1348 above the Golden Horn, is a museum with a viewing terrace. Its past, its floors, and what lies nearby: the Mevlevi lodge, Karaköy, Tophane and İstiklal.
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What to see in Erzurum, area by area: the Seljuk medreses and tomb towers, the castle and Ottoman mosques, the Atatürk House, Palandöken above the city, and to the north the Tortum waterfall and the Georgian churches.
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Mount Ararat, Ağrı Dağı, rises to 5,137 metres on Türkiye's eastern edge. Its names, its ice cap, the walking routes, and the palace, castle, crater and Noah's Ark site around Doğubayazıt.
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The Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar were both built to pay for a mosque. Here is what each one is, how the Nuruosmaniye Mosque and the Mahmud Paşa quarter link them, and the great mosque complexes of Süleymaniye and Beyazıt to add on the same day.
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What to see in Batman province, grouped by area: the Batman Museum and the mound of Hallan Çemi near the city, Hasankeyf and what the Ilısu dam changed there, the mosques and castles of Kozluk and Sason, the Mor Kiryakus monastery and the shrine of Seyyid Bilal.
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The Bosphorus is the strait of about 30 km that divides İstanbul between Europe and Asia. Here are its currents, its three bridges, its yalıs, and the palaces, fortresses, pavilions and museums along the European and Asian shores.
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What to see in Kayseri, area by area: the Seljuk medreses and tomb towers of the centre, Mimar Sinan's mosque and the city museums, the Koramaz valley and Talas, the Bronze Age tablets of Kültepe, and to the south Mount Erciyes, Sultan Marsh, the Yahyalı waterfalls and Soğanlı.
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How the great monuments of Sultanahmet sit together and the order to see them in: Hagia Sophia, the Basilica Cistern, the Blue Mosque and the Hippodrome, then Topkapı Palace, Hagia Irene and the Archaeological Museums.
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Türkiye's historic villages by region: Cumalıkızık near Bursa, the former Rum villages of Şirince and Kayaköy, the Greek villages of Gökçeada, Simena on the Lycian coast, Yörük Köyü near Safranbolu, and Vakıflı.
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What to see in Adana: the Stone Bridge and the Sabancı Central Mosque on the Seyhan, the Ramazanoğlu mosques, the Adana Museum in a former textile mill, and beyond the city Misis, Anavarza, Yumurtalık and the Taurus plateaus.
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What to see in Mersin province: the island castle of Kızkalesi, the Heaven and Hell sinkholes, St Paul's church and well in Tarsus, the temples of Uzuncaburç, Silifke's castle and the cave of St Thekla, and the castle at Anamur.
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Saint Nicholas, remembered as the original of Father Christmas, served as bishop of Myra, inside today's Demre in Antalya. What the church over his grave holds, where his bones went, and what to see around Demre: Myra, Andriake, Patara and the St Nicholas Ways.
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Where to see a historic Turkish bath in Türkiye: the hammam museums of İstanbul, Beypazarı, Gaziantep and Eskişehir, the early Ottoman baths of Bolu, Mudurnu and İznik, and old baths still in use in Safranbolu, Tokat, Aksaray, Eğirdir and Tekirdağ.
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What to see in Hatay: the mosaic collections and the cave church of St Pierre in Antakya, the Titus Tunnel, Vakıflı near Samandağ, the churches of İskenderun, Sinan's complex at Payas, and inland Alalah, lakes and plateaus.
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What to see in Şanlıurfa: Göbeklitepe and Karahantepe, the carp pools of Balıklıgöl under the castle, the archaeology and mosaic museums at Haleplibahçe, the old mosques of the centre, and further out Harran and Halfeti.
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What to see in Çanakkale: the Gallipoli Historical Site and its memorials and museums, Çimenlik Castle and the city's museums, Assos, the Smintheion, Alexandria Troas and Parion, Mount Ida, and the islands of Bozcaada and Gökçeada, with Troy covered in its own article.
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Who the Lycians were, how their League worked, and what to look for at Xanthos, Letoon, Patara, Tlos, Pınara, Sidyma, Kaş, Myra, Andriake, Limyra, Arykanda, Olympos and Phaselis, with the Lycian Way that joins them.
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What to see on the Princes' Islands, the Adalar district of İstanbul: the islands' museum and the Büyükada and Dilburnu nature parks on Büyükada, the Değirmenburnu park on Heybeliada, and the Sait Faik Abasıyanık Museum on Burgaz.
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What to see in Bursa city and around it, grouped by area: the early Ottoman complexes of Yeşil, Yıldırım and Muradiye, the tombs of Tophane, the hans and the city museums, the village of Cumalıkızık, Mount Uludağ, and further out İznik, Gölyazı, Mudanya and Misi.
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What to see in Gaziantep: the Zeugma Mosaic Museum, the castle and the old hans around it, the house museums of the Bey quarter, the museums of the city's defence and its food, and further out Rumkale, Yesemek and Karkamış.
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What to see in Edirne: the Selimiye and its museums, the Eski Cami and Üç Şerefeli, the Bayezid II complex on the Tunca, the Ottoman bridges, the Balkan War forts, and further out Uzunköprü, Enez, Gala Lake and the Saros coast.
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What to see around Lake Van: the carved church on Akdamar, the Urartian castle and museum at Van, the birds of Erçek, the tomb towers and Seljuk cemetery of Ahlat, Süphan Mountain, the Nemrut crater lakes and old Bitlis.
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What to see in Trabzon: the thirteenth-century Ayasofya and the churches, mosques and hans of the walled centre, the city's museums and the Atatürk Pavilion, Sümela and Vazelon in the Maçka valleys, the lake at Uzungöl, the high yaylas and the coast around Akçaabat.
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What to see in Mardin, grouped by area: the mosques, medreses and carved stone houses of the old town, its two museums, the monastery of Deyrulzafaran, the garrison city of Dara, Nusaybin and Beyazsu, and Midyat with Mor Gabriel and the churches of Turabdin.
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What to see in Konya, grouped by area: the Mevlâna Museum and its neighbours, the Seljuk buildings on and around Alaaddin Hill, the city's museums, Sille, and further out Beyşehir, the Hittite monuments, Çatalhöyük and Meke Lake.
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What to see in Fethiye and Ölüdeniz: the Amintas rock tombs, Ölüdeniz beach and paragliding from Babadağ, Butterfly Valley, the abandoned town of Kayaköy, the Saklıkent gorge, and the Lycian cities of Tlos, Pınara and Kadyanda.
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What to see in İzmir, grouped by area: the Clock Tower, Kemeraltı, the Agora and the Kordon in the city, its museums, Pergamon at Bergama, Urla, Çeşme and Alaçatı on the peninsula, Foça and Karaburun, Birgi inland, and a short pointer to Ephesus.
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Hattusa was the capital of the Hittite Empire. This guide covers where it is, what survives, and the other Hittite sites and museums of Çorum province: Alacahöyük, Şapinuva, the Boğazköy and Çorum museums and the Hittite Trail.
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The seven churches of Revelation were in Anatolia, in today's Türkiye. What stands now at three of their cities, Pergamon at Bergama, Thyateira at Akhisar and Philadelphia at Alaşehir, and the church remains at Ephesus and Laodikeia.
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What to see in Bodrum: the castle of the Knights of St John and its Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the site of the Mausoleum, the ancient theatre and what is left of Halikarnassos, Myndos at Gümüşlük, the town's smaller museums, and the sights on the road in from Milas.
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How Pamukkale's travertine terraces form, what to see in Hierapolis and its museum, St Philip's bridge, Laodikeia, the hot springs of Karahayıt and Akköy, and the other ancient cities, caves and mountains of Denizli province.
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What to see in Ankara: Anıtkabir, the castle quarter with the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations, the assembly buildings of Ulus, Hacı Bayram and the Roman Baths, Hamamönü, and day trips to Gordion and Beypazarı.
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What to see in Cappadocia, grouped by area: the painted rock churches of the Göreme Open Air Museum, Uçhisar and the valley walks, Zelve and Avanos, Ürgüp and its villages, the underground cities, and Ihlara and Soğanlı further out.
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Çatalhöyük, near Çumra in Konya province, was lived in from about 7000 BC and had grown beyond a village into an early town. What makes it so old and so unusual, what you can see at the site, and where its finds are shown.
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Ararat, Süphan and the glaciers of Cilo in the east; Erciyes and Hasan above Cappadocia; the climbing walls of the Aladağlar; the Kaçkar above the Black Sea; and the mountains you can ride up by cable car. How high they are, what they are like and when to go.
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Glaciers in Hakkâri, flooded forest in Thrace, a Hittite capital, a canyon in Antalya and two parks made of open sea: Türkiye's national parks region by region, with the best-known ones explained in a few lines each.
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Ephesus is more than its marble streets. The ancient city, the Terrace Houses, the Ephesus Museum, the Temple of Artemis, Ayasuluk Hill and the House of the Virgin Mary all lie in or near Selçuk — what each one is and how they fit together.
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Troy is in Türkiye, in Çanakkale province near Tevfikiye, in the land that joins the Aegean to the Sea of Marmara and Europe to Asia. Here is what the mound holds and what to see in the museum and the Troad around it.
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What to see in Antalya province: Kaleiçi and Hadrian's Gate, the ancient cities of Perge, Aspendos, Side, Termessos and Olympos, the Düden and Kurşunlu waterfalls, Köprülü Canyon, the Lycian coast from Demre to Kaş, and Alanya's castle.
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What to see in Istanbul, grouped by part of the city: the monuments of the historic peninsula, Süleymaniye and the two great bazaars, the Golden Horn, Galata and Beyoğlu, the Bosphorus palaces and fortresses, and the islands. A few lines on each, with a link to its full guide.
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The loop most first-time visitors follow joins four very different places: an imperial city, a valley of rock-cut churches, the largest walkable ancient city in Anatolia and a hillside of white travertine. What each one is, and why it belongs on the route.
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From Erciyes above Kayseri to the small lift on Elmadağ near Ankara: where Türkiye's ski centres are, how high they sit, how long the season lasts and how to reach them without a car.
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