Our compilation for Ankara, not an official route. What it carries is the capital's particular kind of interest.

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations holds finds from sites across the country, including the Hittite material from Boğazköy; Gordion, out to the west, is where the Phrygian tumuli are; and the rest is a republican city looking at its own recent past, from the prison museum at Ulucanlar to Ankara Palas.

Gordion is the one place here that genuinely sits apart from the others and it is worth a half day of its own. The museums cluster in the old town and the government quarter and can be walked between; the Soğuksu park is forest, outside the city altogether.